The Municipality of Peyia

The Municipality of Peyia (confusingly also spelt Pegeia – the 'g' is silent) covers a large area stretching from the Peyia Forest on the hills high above the village in the north, to the sea in the south, and from the Bay of Maa in the east to the Akamas peninsula in the west.

The village of Peyia started life as a typical, small Cypriot village of stone-built houses with narrow streets built around a church nestling on a hillside overlooking the sea. It is about 4 kms inland from a beautiful, naturally sandy beach at Coral Bay and about 15 kms north-west of Paphos.

It is thought that Peyia may have derived its name from a small local harbour that the Venetians called 'Bahia'

In the past villagers had to collect their water from the village spring or 'vrisi'. It was here that everyone met, especially the young men of the village who would congregate to watch the young girls collecting water in their red clay pitchers. It is said that to drink the Peyia spring water made the girls beautiful and several songs were written about the vrisi, one of which ,'Spring of Peyia Woman' ( Click to play or stop) is still sung today. The vrisi is still visible though little visited except by newly weds, as this is where a great number of wedding ceremonies are now conducted. The vrisi is in a paved area to one side of the municipal car park in the centre of the village.

Peyia retains some of its traditions. The menfolk still talk politics in the coffee shops, the women attend church and shop for food in the local stores, the local tavernas serve up hearty meals at modest prices. But the village has been extensively modernised, with little concern for its heritage. Stone houses are now an endangered species and local beauty spots have been compromised by inappropriate development.

None of this is surprising. Since the opening of Paphos Airport, the western end of Cyprus has become a favoured tourism and retirement destination, especially for British people. The only good beach in the area lies close to Peyia. The village's position, 15 minutes from Paphos yet on the edge of unspoiled countryside, makes it a desirable location for middle-class Cypriots. Till very recently, old buildings were not valued. They were associated with the poverty from which Cypriots have managed to escape despite the trauma of Turkish invasion in 1974.

Peyia is still an attractive place to live. Despite the recent influx of foreign residents, local people remain friendly, the pace of life is relaxed, and there is plenty to occupy visitors and residents alike. The countryside north and west of Peyia is largely undeveloped, with numerous walking trails and the chance of sighting rare birds and plants. The neighbouring village of Kathikas is noted for its wines and good restaurants.

Far to the northeast lies the Troodos mountain range, now accessible via a sealed road that runs through superb pine forest. To the south lies Coral Bay, where numerous hotels, bars and restaurants contribute to a nightlife scene that is boisterous but safe for families.

The coast stretches west past Kantarkasti, or Sea Caves, where the sea has gouged out the limestone cliffs and left some odd geological formations. Beyond is the slab-like island of Geronisos and the small fishing refuge of Agios Georgios. Important Roman and early Christian archaeological sites lie inland at this point, including a complex of rock-cut tombs that go unnoticed by most visitors.

West beyond Agios Georgios is the Akamas Peninsula, a wild, uninhabited and so far unspoilt region which is currently the centre of a battle between developers and environmentalists. It is one of the last true wildernesses in Europe but encroachment is an ever-present threat. The peninsula is noted for a fine beach at Lara, one of the few places in Cyprus where turtles still lay eggs in the sand. The hatchery is protected but under constant threat from uncaring bathers.

The downside of Peyia's popularity – with foreigners and Cypriots alike – is a noticeable degradation in the environment. Developers have been given free rein to build villas and holiday flats, seemingly without regard for their impact on the surrounding area. Stone houses become hemmed in by apartment blocks. Plot density is revised without consultation. Houses have even been built in old river beds that are dry for much of the year but play an important role in draining winter rains.

This has an inevitable impact on the quality of life. It sometimes seems as if Peyia has become a gigantic building site, with non-stop noise and dirt from heavy construction traffic, and unsightly building rubbish marring the once-pretty rural lanes. Some residents are now trying to limit the transformation of their much-loved village into a featureless metropolis.

For as long as Europeans holiday in, and retire to, Cyprus, Peyia's future seems assured. There will be continuing demand for homes in the area and much for residents to enjoy. The challenge for Peyia Municipality is to balance the insatiable ambition of property developers with residents' reasonable requirements for quality of life. So far the developers are winning, but there is room for hope that a fair compromise can be reached. In their quest for new buyers, property developers are in danger of alienating their former customers. In the long term, that cannot be good for business.